The number of mid-size and plus-size models declined internationally for the AW23 season across New York, London, Milan and Paris.
According to a recent Vogue Business article, the number of mid-size and plus-size models declined internationally for the AW23 season across New York, London, Milan and Paris. For Copenhagen Fashion Week’s AW23 edition however, body representation continues to rise, according to the Danish online fashion news platform Fashion Forum.
Read the full article in Danish here or find an English summary below.
Size inclusivity in international fashion weeks
Vogue Business examined all 9,137 looks during a total of 219 shows across New York, London, Milan and Paris, disclosing disappointing results on size inclusivity for AW23. Only 0.6% of these looks were with a curvy model (here defined as size 42+). 3.8 % were so-called medium sized (size 38-40), resulting in 95.6% of all looks worn by models with confection size S (36) or smaller.
According to the search engine Tagwalk, only 68 brands out of the 219 had at least one model with a size of 38+. The season before, that number counted90 brands. Out of the 68, mainly upcoming brands use models with different sizes, whereas most large and established fashion houses fall short.
What about Copenhagen Fashion Week?
Investigating body representation at Copenhagen Fashion Week during the AW23, edition Fashion Forum reviewed images of all looks and made their own count.
Fashion Forum found that the number of curvy models has increased from 2.9 % in the AW22 season to 7.39% the following year, in AW23. Especially mid-sized models they saw more of - a size that the majority of women in Denmark identify with, but which has historically been remarkably absent from catwalks in general, as Rikke Agnete Dam also recently argued in an article for the Børsen. Fashion Forum found that the number of mid-sized models increased from six looks out of a total of 806 looks in AW22 to 33 looks out of a total of 785 in AW23. Figures that are still relatively low in the big picture, but nevertheless steadily increasing. Contrary to the findings of Vogue Business, both smaller and more established brands were using a wider range of models in Copenhagen.
CEO, Cecilie Thorsmark speaks on body representation at Copenhagen Fashion Week
Seeing the declining trend at international fashion weeks, Fashion Forum asked Copenhagen Fashion Week's CEO, Cecilie Thorsmark, if she is in doubt to see a decline in body diversity at Copenhagen Fashion Week in the future:
“No, in recent years the Danish and Scandinavian fashion industry has distinguished itself as a front runner in various aspects – from environmental sustainability to diversity. In addition, Copenhagen Fashion Week focuses on and communicates about the importance of representation by sharing material and guidelines with brands covering the catwalk and backstage staff."