CPHFW NEWTALENT presented by Pandora Designers

Anne Sofie Madsen

Anne Sofie Madsen, a graduate of The Royal Danish Academy, began her career in Paris and London, working for John Galliano and Alexander McQueen. In 2014, she presented her first live show at Paris Fashion Week, and for several years, her brand was a regular feature on the official Paris Fashion Week calendar. Over time, Madsen’s creative vision evolved alongside her personal journey. Becoming a mother and experiencing new chapters in life led her to reflect on her work and expand her artistic expression beyond fashion. She returned with a small collection for AW25 and now continues with her second.

Bonnetje

Bonnetje, a Copenhagen-based brand, specializes in cutting up old suits and reassembling the pieces into new silhouettes. By reusing defunct materials, they contribute to the search for fashion beyond the current throwaway society.

Their focus extends to past, present, and future sustainable practices. Bonnetje does not aim to pioneer a brand new style but offers their perspective on the emerging movement of circularity within fashion.

Collaboration with contemporary peers and across generations is essential to their approach. Rather than discarding yesterday’s fashion, they aim to preserve it for today and reintroduce it into circulation. In refashioning existing suit items, Bonnetje literally turns certain parts inside-out, honoring the meticulous tailoring by exposing hidden details such as seams, pockets, and lining. Additionally, they incorporate feminine silhouettes into classic masculine forms, blurring the lines between inclusion and exclusion within clothing.

CPHFW NEWTALENT One To Watch

Kettel Atelier (SS26)

Home—specifically the linen closet—is where the heart is for Laura Tønder, a Dane based in Mallorca. In summer 2023, she launched Kettel Atelier, a line of one-off garments made from vintage home textiles and deadstock fabrics. Laura embraces color and experimentation, inspired by her “flamboyant” Norwegian grandmother. Kettel Atelier is a family affair; her mother taught her to sew, knit, and crochet, while her father’s love for vintage automobiles influenced her passion for the past. The company has grown beyond one-of-a-kind pieces, leading to production to cater to wholesalers.

Find out more about Kettel Atelier.

Stem (SS25 & SS26)

Launched in September 2021 by weaver and textile designer Sarah Brunnhuber, Stem is an innovative zero-waste production brand for woven garments. Its weaving, cutting, and sewing system eliminates garment production waste and creates a visual aesthetic that tells a production story. With its experimental approach to zero-waste garments, Stem bridges craft and industry, aiming to disrupt the current cycle of overproduction and overconsumption.

Stem’s philosophy is: Produce better, produce less – buy better, buy less. Stem also operates through brand collaborations, applying its production technique to pieces designed by both young and established brands, for example GANNI x Stem.

Sarah Brunnhuber was selected as a member of Dazed 100 in 2022, curated the collaborative exhibition ‘Edition1, Take 2 in December 2023, and took part in the AW 2024 Ganni x CPHFW New Talent: ‘Future, Talent, Fabrics’ and the ‘The Power and Purpose of the Next Generation’ panel discussion in January 2024.

Find out more about Stem.

Taus (SS26)

Taus is a Copenhagen-based ready-to-wear and demi-couture studio founded in 2024 by Freyja Taus and Juho Lehiö.

Rooted in craftsmanship and slowness, Taus approaches fashion not as novelty, but as dialogue — between past and present, object and body, maker and wearer. Each piece is part of a wider exploration: of identity, of class, of what it means to dress with intention.

Find out more about Taus.

CPHFW NEWTALENT Alumnis

Berner Kühl

Frederik Berner Kühl is the designer and founder of his eponymous brand Berner Kühl.

Informed by a past in production before moving on to design and a Master's degree from Polimoda in Firenze, Frederik is striving to convey his vision in ultimate materiality. Prolonging his vision of texture and feel, his ideas first solidify into materials, which are then driving the actual design.

The fabric decides what shape is best showcasing the material quality. With an ambition to create something that is destined to last. The modular wardrobe approach adopted by the brand is calling for less and better consumption. With an intent to educate the consumer on what good product can be.

A. Roege Hove

A. Roege Hove is a conceptual knitwear brand that challenges traditions with a modern and artistic approach to original craftsmanship and an aim for silhouettes to be both effortless and extravagant. The unique designs are created each season by founder Amalie Røge Hove. With a master’s in textile design from the Royal Danish Academy of Fine Arts, and years of experience as a knitwear designer for Danish brands such as Cecilie Bahnsen and Mark Tan, she created the brand in 2019 as a way of bringing her own visions of knitwear to life. Defined by an experimenting and intuitive way of working with traditional knitwear techniques, the brand challenges our perception of shape and pushes our expectations of the materials and their behaviour.

Find out more about A. Roege Hove.

Rolf Ekroth

Rolf Ekroth, the Finnish-Swedish designer has one of fashion’s most unusual backstories. While most of his friends opted to study business after high school, this contrarian decided to show them up by studying social work. A few years in, Ekroth realized the field wasn’t for him. After taking a few months off, out of the blue a friend who had noted Ekroth’s interest in clothing, suggested Ekroth try fashion. And he did. Since graduating from Helsinki’s Aalto University in 2015, Ekroth has done several collaborative projects, was a finalist at the Hyères Festival, and won the ALPHA Award 2015 (previously Designers’ Nest). He relaunched his namesake label independently in 2020 during the pandemic.

Iso.Poetism by Tobias Birk Nielsen

The ambitious vision of the Copenhagen based label is to analyse and focus on abstract emotional conditions which relate to all modern human beings, for example topics such as grief, isolation, and joy. The project is founded by former Wood Wood & Boris Bidjan Saberi design trainee, just a week after graduating in 2017, as a Master alumni from The Royal Danish Academy of Fine Arts & Design.

The brand is today selling its artifacts in more than 35 countries worldwide with partners such as END. Clothing, ILLUM, Harvey Nichols, HBX Hypebeast, and La Rinascente, and is presenting their collections during the Paris Mens Fashion week twice a year, as well as through shows in such places as Berghain Berlin, Contemporary Art Centre Vilnius and CIFF Copenhagen.

Iso.Poetism by Tobias Birk Nielsen was awarded winner of the Wessel & Vett Fashion Prize 2022.

Find out more about Iso.Poetism by Tobias Birk Nielsen.

P.L.N.

P.L.N. was founded in 2020 by Peter Lundvald Nielsen and then officially launched in August 2021 with the brand’s first collection (Collection I). Peter Lundvald Nielsen has previously worked for Balenciaga, Vetements and Ottolinger before starting his own clothing brand. i-D Magazine mentioned P.L.N. to be one of the best collections presented during CPHFW SS22. Since then, P.L.N. has received wide interest from both leading dealers, international press as well as recognized creative actors. P.L.N. is a very personal project based on exploring a raw and uncompromising visual expression. The designer’s ideas and personal tastes form the foundation of the creative process. Here, European punk culture is mixed, with references to workwear, goth and antique religious attire in addition to well-considered silhouettes, thorough construction, as well as experimental reinterpretations. P.L.N. is based on a traditional understanding of the body, but is not limited to a particular gender or sexuality.

Find out more about P.L.N.

Latimmier

Latimmier is a new ready-to-wear label by rising Finnish fashion talent Ervin Latimer. Latimmier collections are designed for anyone who wants to express masculinity with their clothing. The brand aims to expand the notion of masculinity by challenging who can perform masculinity and what kind of clothing can be used to do that. After graduating from the prestigious Aalto University in Helsinki in 2018, Latimer was headhunted to work at cult luxury label Alyx under creative director Matthew M. Williams. Since then, Latimer has worked for Danish high-end label Heliot Emil and in 2020 he was awarded awarded Young Designer of the Year in Finland.

Find out more about Latimmier.

Nicklas Skovgaard

Founded in 2020, the Copenhagen-based brand aims to explore the relationship textiles can hold in expressing narratives through the marriage of unexpected material and classical form. Creating his own textiles that cultivate an exceptional surface, Nicklas Skovgaard taught himself weaving after discovering a small loom and crafting swatches of his own fabric. Expanding on to a bigger surface allowed Nicklas to create larger pieces moulded into jackets, hats and capelets. With his handmade textiles mapped against contradictory fabrications and cut into unexpected silhouettes, there is a strange visual appeal to the combinations that range from hand-woven wool fabric merged with water repellant fabric, silk taffeta and stretch jersey. All resulting in silhouettes that are captivating in their unexpected manipulations and combinations, hoping to profess a dreamlike state clothes can affect.

Constructing two collections a year, each body of work for Nicklas Skovgaard builds upon the last, acting with an evolutionary purpose and building an ever-evolving vocabulary. Orchestrating these classical and strange symphonies within his eponymous textiles and recognizable design, Nicklas Skovgaard is a brand cultivated on the edge of romanticism and realism. Nicklas Skovgaard was enrolled to CPHFW NEWTALENT in May 2023 and will be showcasing on the official schedule as an active part of CPHFW NEWTALENT for SS24 and AW24. Nicklas Skovgaard was nominated a finalist of the Wessel & Vett Fashion Prize 2022.

Find out more about Nicklas Skovgaard.