Designers
The designers that make up the CPHFW NEWTALENT scheme encompass a modern and innovative vision of Nordic design.
Bonnetje
Bonnetje, a Copenhagen-based brand, specializes in cutting up old suits and reassembling the pieces into new silhouettes. By reusing defunct materials, they contribute to the search for fashion beyond the current throwaway society.
Their focus extends to past, present, and future sustainable practices. Bonnetje does not aim to pioneer a brand new style but offers their perspective on the emerging movement of circularity within fashion.
Collaboration with contemporary peers and across generations is essential to their approach. Rather than discarding yesterday’s fashion, they aim to preserve it for today and reintroduce it into circulation. In refashioning existing suit items, Bonnetje literally turns certain parts inside-out, honoring the meticulous tailoring by exposing hidden details such as seams, pockets, and lining. Additionally, they incorporate feminine silhouettes into classic masculine forms, blurring the lines between inclusion and exclusion within clothing.
Berner Kühl
Frederik Berner Kühl is the designer and founder of his eponymous brand Berner Kühl.
Informed by a past in production before moving on to design and a Master's degree from Polimoda in Firenze, Frederik is striving to convey his vision in ultimate materiality. Prolonging his vision of texture and feel, his ideas first solidify into materials, which are then driving the actual design.
The fabric decides what shape is best showcasing the material quality. With an ambition to create something that is destined to last. The modular wardrobe approach adopted by the brand is calling for less and better consumption. With an intent to educate the consumer on what good product can be.
Alectra Rothschild / Masculina
Alectra Rothschild / Masculina is a brand built on the notions of craftsmanship, femininity, and high glamour.
Alectra is a trained tailor before she started to study fashion. She studied at Beckmans College of Design, MA Fashion under Fabio Piras at Central Saint Martins, and studied sustainability and fashion at The Royal Danish Academy. At this time Alectra trained with the likes of Iris Van Herpen and Anne Sofie Madsen.
Alectra got her first job in the fashion industry at Mugler under the creative direction of Casey Cadwallader and has since done freelance work for Alexander McQueen and a collab with Birkenstock.
Since graduating, i-D mentioned Alectra Rothschild as “best of CPHFW SS23 and AW23”, she was chosen for Dazed100 List 2022 by Dazed and was selected as the first CPHFW NEWTALENT: One to Watch for AW23.
Latest, Alectra had a performance for the SS24 edition of Copenhagen Fashion Week presented by Viscose Journal. Masculina has had the pleasure of dressing stars like Arca, MØ, Zara Larsson and Michéle Lamy.
Stamm
Stamm was founded and launched in 2022 by the Danish designer Elisabet Stamm.
Stamm is a Scandinavian brand with an international outlook. The brand was announced as winner of the Zalando Sustainability Award upon showing its debut AW23 runway show during Copenhagen Fashion Week.
Elisabet describes her approach to the creations as ‘truck poetry’. With a globetrotter family background, bright personality and a dreamy, visionary mind - Stamm's main characteristic is the dualism that can be found in different forms, such as strong vs sensitive, high fashion with a low-key approach, truck vs couture, calm vs dynamic. Diverse meetings, conversations are key to the brand, which is why ‘exchange’ has become an extension to the brand name.
CPHFW NEWTALENT One To Watch
Stem (SS25)
Launched in September 2021 by weaver and textile designer Sarah Brunnhuber, Stem is an innovative zero-waste production brand for woven garments. Its weaving, cutting, and sewing system eliminates garment production waste and creates a visual aesthetic that tells a production story. With its experimental approach to zero-waste garments, Stem bridges craft and industry, aiming to disrupt the current cycle of overproduction and overconsumption.
Stem’s philosophy is: Produce better, produce less – buy better, buy less. Stem also operates through brand collaborations, applying its production technique to pieces designed by both young and established brands, for example GANNI x Stem.
Sarah Brunnhuber was selected as a member of Dazed 100 in 2022, curated the collaborative exhibition ‘Edition1, Take 2 in December 2023, and took part in the AW 2024 Ganni x CPHFW New Talent: ‘Future, Talent, Fabrics’ and the ‘The Power and Purpose of the Next Generation’ panel discussion in January 2024.
Find out more about Stem.
Sól Hansdóttir (SS25)
Sól Hansdóttir is an antidisciplinary label based between London & Iceland. Consisting of a small team led creatively by Sól. The label's conscious and integral business strategy includes rigorous material sourcing, using upcycled materials/ deadstock/ end-of-life fabrics & locally sourced material for made-to-order pieces made by hand in the studio to avoid overproduction.
The label works with experimental patternmaking & Icelandic folkloric & handcraft references resulting in off-kilter pieces for modern times. The Icelandic designer graduated from the MA fashion course at Central Saint Martins 2021 where she was granted the L’Oréal Creative Awards by Gabriella Karefa-Johnson & was a L'Oréal pro scholar. Before she trained with Richard Malone & Hillier Bartley. Sól has assisted on designs for brands such as Calvin Klein, Marc Jacobs, J&M Davidson.
Press coverage includes British Vogue, Face, Dazed, WWD, Perfect Magazine, 1Granary, SHOWstudio, Vogue Runway, Harper's Bazaar.
Find out more about Sól Hansdóttir.
Martin Quad (AW24)
Debuting at the SS24 edition of Copenhagen Fashion Week, Martin Quad premiered their first collection presented as an opera performance on the presentation schedule, greatly supported by the Danish Art Foundations. The presentation was recognised by great international attendees and mentioned in Vogue US. This marked the start of the brand Martin Quad and was also a manifest of what Martin wishes to bring to the fashion scene.
Martin Quad aims to challenge the way of experiencing fashion and present garments in a new constellation to Copenhagen Fashion Week. All garments are developed from the designer’s passion for craftsmanship. With a traditional approach to the making of garments, the designer seeks to create beautiful, modern yet unconventional looks. Martin plays between the themes of tradition and destruction, and aims to challenge traditional fabric use, techniques and products. Martin Quad is born from the idea of creating and developing fashion with conceptual storytelling shows and powerful designs.
Find out more about Martin Quad.
Sloth Rousing (AW24)
Sloth Rousing is a new fashion brand that showed its first collection during CPHW August 2021. The brand focuses on creating a story around every collection, which is shown through fashion films, installation pieces and directly in the collection itself.
Behind the brand is the Danish fashion designer Marie Sloth Rousing who graduated from The Royal Danish Academy of Fine Arts 2018. With her graduation project Transformable Wardrobe she won Designers Nest and several other prizes. In January 2022 she received a two-year talent grant from the Danish Art Foundation to further develop her methods and aesthetics.
Sloth Rousing focuses on creating timeless styles developed and constructed in Denmark. The collections are unique and conceptual. The installation and clothing are developed side by side and are being conveyed through a fashion film and performance shows. The vision of Sloth Rousing is to create concepts that examine the limits of our understanding of clothing.
Find out more about Sloth Rousing.
MLGA (SS24, AW24)
MLGA is founded in 2023, by former employee at A. Roege Hove & Cecilie Bahnsen, and Royal Danish Academy MA alumni Marie-Louise Guldbæk Andersen. Straight after graduating, MLGA got selected for the ALPHA Award during CPHFW AW23 and was awarded the Official Browns Fashion price together with a residency at the ALPHA Studio space.
Craftsmanship, tailoring and attention to authentic product development are the key foundation and core identity behind MLGA’s design-DNA. Self-developed, analogue knitted, and woven textiles are combined with a beautiful mix of carefully curated deadstock materials. A creative universe where voluminous silhouettes are offering a different perspective on non-stereotypical menswear through deconstructed and reinvented take on iconic classical masculine garments. It’s a journey of self-discovery of the beauty of finding strength in fragility and vulnerability in menswear.
“MLGA’s design challenges the concept of masculinity adding to a very important debate that is at the forefront of men’s fashion today and a subject very close to Brown’s heart. Upfront the craftsmanship and attention to detail is exceptional, and Browns fell in love with her approach to slow fashion, taking time to do something thoroughly and properly is rare today and should be treasured”. Ida Petersson, 2023.
Latest, MLGA was chosen to be ‘One To Watch’ at CPHFW. She invited and audience to explore her creative world as a newly launched brand with a showroom and event during Copenhagen Fashion Week August 2023.
Find out more about MGLA.
Alectra Rothschild (AW23)
Alectra Rothschild / Masculina is a brand built on the notions of craftsmanship, femininity, and high glamour.
Alectra is a trained tailor before she started to study fashion. She studied at Beckmans College of Design, MA Fashion under Fabio Piras at Central Saint Martins, and studied sustainability and fashion at The Royal Danish Academy. At this time Alectra trained with the likes of Iris Van Herpen and Anne Sofie Madsen.
Alectra got her first job in the fashion industry at Mugler under the creative direction of Casey Cadwallader and has since done freelance work for Alexander McQueen and a collaboration with Birkenstock.
Since graduating, i-D mentioned Alectra Rothschild as “best of CPHFW SS23 and AW23”, she was chosen for DAZED100 List 2022 by Dazed and was selected as the first CPHFW NEWTALENT: One to Watch for AW23.
Latest, Alectra had a performance for CPHFW SS24 presented by VISCOSE JOURNAL. Masculina has had the pleasure of dressing stars like Arca, MØ, Zara Larsson and Michéle Lamy.
Find out more about Alectra Rothschild.
CPHFW NEWTALENT Alumnis
A. Roege Hove
A. Roege Hove is a conceptual knitwear brand that challenges traditions with a modern and artistic approach to original craftsmanship and an aim for silhouettes to be both effortless and extravagant. The unique designs are created each season by founder Amalie Røge Hove. With a master’s in textile design from the Royal Danish Academy of Fine Arts, and years of experience as a knitwear designer for Danish brands such as Cecilie Bahnsen and Mark Tan, she created the brand in 2019 as a way of bringing her own visions of knitwear to life. Defined by an experimenting and intuitive way of working with traditional knitwear techniques, the brand challenges our perception of shape and pushes our expectations of the materials and their behaviour.
Find out more about A. Roege Hove.
Rolf Ekroth
Rolf Ekroth, the Finnish-Swedish designer has one of fashion’s most unusual backstories. While most of his friends opted to study business after high school, this contrarian decided to show them up by studying social work. A few years in, Ekroth realized the field wasn’t for him. After taking a few months off, out of the blue a friend who had noted Ekroth’s interest in clothing, suggested Ekroth try fashion. And he did. Since graduating from Helsinki’s Aalto University in 2015, Ekroth has done several collaborative projects, was a finalist at the Hyères Festival, and won the ALPHA Award 2015 (previously Designers’ Nest). He relaunched his namesake label independently in 2020 during the pandemic.
Iso.Poetism by Tobias Birk Nielsen
The ambitious vision of the Copenhagen based label is to analyse and focus on abstract emotional conditions which relate to all modern human beings, for example topics such as grief, isolation, and joy. The project is founded by former Wood Wood & Boris Bidjan Saberi design trainee, just a week after graduating in 2017, as a Master alumni from The Royal Danish Academy of Fine Arts & Design.
The brand is today selling its artifacts in more than 35 countries worldwide with partners such as END. Clothing, ILLUM, Harvey Nichols, HBX Hypebeast, and La Rinascente, and is presenting their collections during the Paris Mens Fashion week twice a year, as well as through shows in such places as Berghain Berlin, Contemporary Art Centre Vilnius and CIFF Copenhagen.
Iso.Poetism by Tobias Birk Nielsen was awarded winner of the Wessel & Vett Fashion Prize 2022.
Find out more about Iso.Poetism by Tobias Birk Nielsen.
P.L.N.
P.L.N. was founded in 2020 by Peter Lundvald Nielsen and then officially launched in August 2021 with the brand’s first collection (Collection I). Peter Lundvald Nielsen has previously worked for Balenciaga, Vetements and Ottolinger before starting his own clothing brand. i-D Magazine mentioned P.L.N. to be one of the best collections presented during CPHFW SS22. Since then, P.L.N. has received wide interest from both leading dealers, international press as well as recognized creative actors. P.L.N. is a very personal project based on exploring a raw and uncompromising visual expression. The designer’s ideas and personal tastes form the foundation of the creative process. Here, European punk culture is mixed, with references to workwear, goth and antique religious attire in addition to well-considered silhouettes, thorough construction, as well as experimental reinterpretations. P.L.N. is based on a traditional understanding of the body, but is not limited to a particular gender or sexuality.
Find out more about P.L.N.
Latimmier
Latimmier is a new ready-to-wear label by rising Finnish fashion talent Ervin Latimer. Latimmier collections are designed for anyone who wants to express masculinity with their clothing. The brand aims to expand the notion of masculinity by challenging who can perform masculinity and what kind of clothing can be used to do that. After graduating from the prestigious Aalto University in Helsinki in 2018, Latimer was headhunted to work at cult luxury label Alyx under creative director Matthew M. Williams. Since then, Latimer has worked for Danish high-end label Heliot Emil and in 2020 he was awarded awarded Young Designer of the Year in Finland.
Find out more about Latimmier.
Nicklas Skovgaard
Founded in 2020, the Copenhagen-based brand aims to explore the relationship textiles can hold in expressing narratives through the marriage of unexpected material and classical form. Creating his own textiles that cultivate an exceptional surface, Nicklas Skovgaard taught himself weaving after discovering a small loom and crafting swatches of his own fabric. Expanding on to a bigger surface allowed Nicklas to create larger pieces moulded into jackets, hats and capelets. With his handmade textiles mapped against contradictory fabrications and cut into unexpected silhouettes, there is a strange visual appeal to the combinations that range from hand-woven wool fabric merged with water repellant fabric, silk taffeta and stretch jersey. All resulting in silhouettes that are captivating in their unexpected manipulations and combinations, hoping to profess a dreamlike state clothes can affect.
Constructing two collections a year, each body of work for Nicklas Skovgaard builds upon the last, acting with an evolutionary purpose and building an ever-evolving vocabulary. Orchestrating these classical and strange symphonies within his eponymous textiles and recognizable design, Nicklas Skovgaard is a brand cultivated on the edge of romanticism and realism. Nicklas Skovgaard was enrolled to CPHFW NEWTALENT in May 2023 and will be showcasing on the official schedule as an active part of CPHFW NEWTALENT for SS24 and AW24. Nicklas Skovgaard was nominated a finalist of the Wessel & Vett Fashion Prize 2022.
Find out more about Nicklas Skovgaard.
