Sustainability Requirements

The Sustainability Requirements introduce a minimum set of standards that all CPHFW show & presentation schedule brands had to conform to since January 2023

Copenhagen Fashion Week: Sustainability Requirements

In 2020 Copenhagen Fashion Week introduced their first Sustainability Action Plan that set out to incur longterm positive change within the fashion industry.

That Action Plan introduced a set of Minimum Standards for brands covering both environmental and social considerations. Since January 2023 only applicants whose business practices meet those Minimum Standards are considered for the official show & presentation schedule at Copenhagen Fashion Week.

In 2024 Copenhagen Fashion Week launched revisions of the Sustainability Requirements based on industry developments, learnings from the past years and close observations of the EU policy landscape. These updates replace the framework that has been used from 2023-2024 and will be the new mandatory admission criteria for brands on the official show & presentation schedule as of 2025.

You can find out about the changes made to the Minimum Standards and the Additional Actions in detail or find a full overview of the updated framework.

Please note that the Sustainability Requirements are a framework used in the application process of Copenhagen Fashion Week (their application may differ for external partners) and are not a certification scheme or audit. Hence, they are not an additional or new reporting system but have been developed as an essential part of the application process for brands wishing to showcase their collections at Copenhagen Fashion Week.

With the Sustainability Requirement being part of the CPHFW application process, brands are being screened against their answers and documentation for the Minimum Standards by an external Screening Committee to validate, not audit responses.

By implementing this framework CPHFW is not claiming ourselves nor the brands on our show and presentation schedule to be inherently sustainable or to execute sustainability efforts perfectly. Rather the framework creates a basis and common language for CPHFW and our brand network and sets the expectations to be met when wishing to be part of our fashion week.

The wording for the framework derives from sustainability as a concept within business operations today and refers to the actions and agendas of businesses working to reduce their environmental impact while promoting social justice.

The Sustainability Requirements were established in recognition of already existing guidelines, tools, codes of conduct, standards, certifications and/or agendas, many of which have been taken into account in their development stage for a shared focus. Brands who follow and support existing agendas should therefore be able to comply with our requirements.

Minimum Standards

In line with the latest revisions, CPHFW together with their Knowledge Partners DM&T and In futurum launched indicators for each Minimum Standard to further guide brand answers and to ease the screening process. They are shared with the public for increased transparency of the application and screening process.

Strategic Directions

1. We have a formally approved sustainability strategy in place, covering both environmental and social considerations.

• Please share your sustainability/ESG strategy. This strategy should cover both environmental and social considerations and can include commitments to international pledges or voluntary schemes such as SBTI, UNGC, ILO or UNFCCC.
• Please indicate by whom the strategy is approved by (management, board, c-suite).*
• Describe how the strategy is reviewed and monitored. Reviews and monitoring could be executed through e.g. annual reports, regular updates on social media/website, internal check-ins or project management tools such as asana.
• Describe how tasks/responsibilities regarding your sustainability strategy are owned/divided to secure progress against targets. For instance via respective job functions or teams, project plans, handovers, external consultants/freelancers, project managers etc.**

*Brands with no or very limited hierarchical structures due to their size do not have to have the strategy approved by management/board/c-suite but it is expected that the strategy is approved by e.g. founder(s) or relevant team members such as leads in Production or Design.

**It is not expected that brands <10 employees have clear-cut task owners or departments dedicated to their sustainability or compliance efforts in place. Instead brands can share how tasks might be integrated to the everyday decision making of relevant team members.

2. We have guidelines and structures in place to provide equal opportunities and hiring processes for greater diversity and inclusion in our office(s), especially for management positions.

• Please share your DEIB policy in the form of e.g. a company handbook, strategy document, internal guidelines/targets/commitments with us.* Documentation can be linked to e.g. inclusive hiring process such as bias training or office guidelines/structures that enable equal opportunities for employees such as considerations around compensation, access to benefits, training and employee development.
• State which departments or roles in your team have received guidelines or training for inclusive hiring processes.**
• Describe how your hiring process is reflecting DEIB considerations.***

*It is not expected that brands <10 employees have a policy in place.

**It is not expected that brands <10 employees have undergone training.

***Brands <10 employees are expected to share DEIB considerations for potential future hires. These brands are required to be committed to learn from e.g. (freely) available resources or guidelines that could be/are implemented if ever relevant.

3. We do not destroy unsold clothes and samples from previous collections and have a process in place for leftovers.

• Please describe your process for handling unsold clothes, samples and leftovers incl. any partners you might work with.

Design

4. We have criteria in place to ensure the quality and longevity of our products and inform our customers about the value of longevity.

• Please inform us which measures or criteria ensure the longevity and durability of products and how they were tested.*
• Describe how product-related customer feedback is considered in this process.
• Share how you communicate the value of longevity to your customers (e.g. care instruction, store staff, labels, information on website...).

*Brands who do not source their own fibres/fabric but are e.g. using deadstock fabric, second hand material from e.g. flea markets or second-hand stores, repurposing other textiles such as bed linen etc. are to explain their selection criteria and how these are related to the longevity and quality of their products

5. We implement circular design principles to our products considering their repairability, recyclability, upgradability and reusability as well as the inclusion of recycled content.

• Share how circular design principles have been implemented to your collection.

Smart material choices

6. At least 60% of our collection is either certified, made of preferred materials or deadstock fabric.

• Share your list of materials used and their quantities in % of your collection.
• Share documentation/links for certified/preferred materials if any.

7. We have a preferred materials list in place.

• Share a link to your preferred materials list.
• Describe your approach and considerations when creating and evaluating/updating your preferred materials list.

8. We have a list of restricted substances in place, following the EU REACH Directive, and have a test programme in place to ensure compliance from our suppliers. *

• Share your RSL or CoC, indicating where to find information on restricted substances.
• Describe how you engage with your suppliers on this and how testing is conducted.

*Brands who do not source their own fibres/fabric but are e.g. using production scraps, second hand material from e.g. flea markets or second-hand stores, repurposing other textiles such as bed linen etc. are exempt from this MS unless they source these materials outside the EU. In that case they must document how they ensure compliance with the Directive.

9. Our collection is free from virgin fur, wild animal skins and feathers, also referred to as exotics.

• Please confirm that your collection is free from above mentioned animal-derived materials.
• Please state if you are planning to use upcycled and/or fake alternatives for your collection.

Working conditions

10. We have a Code of Conduct in place according to international guidelines and standards and work with our suppliers via e.g. self-assessments, third party audits or training to build their capacity to meet the CoC. *

• Please share your CoC.
• Please describe how you are working with your suppliers to build their capacity to meet the CoC.

*Brands who do not work with suppliers but e.g. are sourcing local secondary materials and assembling in their studio, are exempt of this MS.

11. We implemented control measures to prevent contributing to harm through our purchasing practices.

• Share your ethical/responsible procurement policy/guidelines or indicate where in your CoC they can befound.*
• Please describe which control measures are implemented.
• Please share how you onboard/train relevant team members e.g. onboarding meetings, handover, sharing internal policy.

*It is not expected that brands <10 employees have a policy in place but it is expected that they share considerations on their purchasing practices and how they are preventing to contributing to harm through those e.g. lead times, order placements/changes

12. We have guidelines and processes in place to operate a safe, healthy and respectful working environment for employees in our office(s), free from harassment and discrimination and to enhance equal opportunities regardless of gender, ethnicity, age, political/religious/sexual orientation, physical appearance and ability.*

• Share your guidelines and processes such as your policy in the form of e.g. a company handbook, DEIB strategy, internal guidelines/targets/commitments.
• Explain how employees are informed about this policy.
• Which positions/teams in your team are trained to identify and deal with discrimination and harassment at the workplace.
• Describe how you handle complaints regarding above mentioned considerations.

*Brands who are run only by e.g. a group of founders, family members or are partners are exempt from this MS.

Consumer engagement

13. Our in-store and/or online customer service staff is well informed about our sustainability strategy through training programmes and/or educational material.*

• Please describe how you inform and educate your employees.
• Share educational material if any.
• Indicate how management tracks information sharing and education of relevant staff.

*Only applicable for brands who have this type of staff, hence brands who do not have staff in these positions are exempt from this MS.

14. We educate and inform our customers about our sustainability practices in line with the Green Claims Directive on at least two platforms.

• Share links to examples from at least two platforms such as website, social media or in-store sustainability communication.

15. We are constantly working to reduce the environmental footprint of our packaging in-store and for online orders.*

• Please share how you are working to reduce the environmental footprint of packaging.

*Only applicable for brands who have their own stores and/or online shop. For wholesale partners, only applicable if brand-owned packaging is used.

Showcase

16. Our show and backstage production do not produce/use single-use props for the showcase, prefers rental options and finds a long-term second life for all props that are not rented.*

• Describe your planned show production and share any partners you’re intending to work with.

*CPHFW conducts backstage and front-of-house checks during each edition of fashion week for brands on the official show schedule to ensure show-related MS are upheld. When submitting the survey brands must confirm production teams are informed and how they are planning to uphold the respective MS. A sanction system is in place in case breaches to the MS are found.

17. No single-use plastic packaging will be used to produce our showcase* and waste will be sorted according to Danish waste sorting requirements.**

• Share what alternatives to single-use-plastic you are planning to use, if any.
• Share how you will ensure correct waste sorting.

*This includes all types of single-use plastic packaging utilized backstage such as food, beverages, garment protectors, hangers etc.

**CPHFW conducts backstage and front-of-house checks during each edition of fashion week for brands on the official show schedule to ensure show-related MS are upheld. When submitting the survey brands must confirm production teams are informed and how they are planning to uphold the respective MS. A sanction system is in place in case breaches to the MS are found.

18. We support emission reduction/insetting activities through CPHFW’s climate actions.

• Please confirm you agree for CPHFW to invest in climate reduction/insetting activities brand-overarchingly for showcase-generated emissions.

19. We are a signatory of the Danish Fashion Ethical Charter and comply with their rules.*

• Share a link/proof to your signature status.

*If your brand has signed the Danish Fashion Ethical Charter but does not yet appear on their website, please share confirmation/documentation directly via mail.