EU Textile Labelling Regulation (TLR) Under Revision: What Lies Ahead?

The European Commission is revising EU Textile Labelling Regs for sustainable practices & transparency, aligning with Ecodesign for Sustainable Products Regulations

In the backdrop of fostering sustainable practices and heightening transparency in the textile realm, the European Commission has rolled out its plans for revising the EU Textile Labelling Regulation (TLR). This revision is primed to lay out guidelines for both physical and digital textile labelling, infusing provisions related to sustainability and circularity, echoing sentiments of the Ecodesign for Sustainable Products Regulation.

Impact and challenges

The revision of the Textile Labelling Regulation seeks to bring about significant changes aimed at standardising practices across the EU. Emphasising harmonisation, the revision focuses on standardising fibre composition testing methods, rules on leather, and sizing standards, aiming to rectify the prevailing fragmentation seen across Member States of the EU. In a bid to modernise and streamline, there's a notable shift from traditional physical labels to digital ones. The EU Commission envisions using QR codes in conjunction with multi-purpose technologies, like the Digital Product Passport (DPP). Additionally, the introduction of a standardised set of fibre codes is anticipated to simplify translations, leading to more concise labels. Given the emerging innovations in the sector, like those from TreeToTextile introducing novel fibres that may have lesser environmental impacts, the revision is geared towards refining the fibre classification process, making it both more transparent and efficient.

The forthcoming revision is not without its anticipated challenges. One significant alteration could be in the realm of Product Care Information, where there's a potential transition from the current GINETEX symbols to a new EU standardised code. This shift might lead to misalignments with widely accepted international standards. Additionally, leather and fur products are set to undergo a notable change. With the expansion of the TLR’s jurisdiction, these products are likely to see a detailed inclusion of factors such as animal species, sourcing methodologies, and implications related to deforestation. Moreover, echoing the voice of civil society, there's a brewing debate on the revision's focus: should it strictly address material composition or embrace a wider spectrum by incorporating expansive sustainability metrics? The balance between these perspectives remains a point of contention.

What comes next?

As the call for evidence has just been concluded, the Commission has planned to initiate its revision for the 4th quarter in 2023. While the concrete content has not been made public yet, we can reasonably expect that brands will need to implement more comprehensive and standardised labelling practices, ensuring that consumers have access to accurate information about the composition and origin of textile products. As a result, fashion and textile brands must prepare to adapt their labelling procedures to comply with these new regulations, thereby promoting fair competition and bolstering consumer confidence in their products.