Scandinavian Academy of Fashion Design: The ghost of Miyake
DATE & TIME: Tuesday 7 August – 15:00
Words Jeppe Ugelvig
For its small size, Denmark is surprisingly abundant in fashion colleges, and their many students provide a much-needed stream of fresh, exciting perspectives into an otherwise comfort-seeking fashion week. What they lack in technicality and budgets they make up for in concepts and careful research; and this year’s graduates from the Scandinavian Academy of Fashion Design was no exception.
Eight talented young designers from in- and outside Denmark presented micro-collections Tuesday afternoon to an anticipatory crowd of industry people, teachers, and family. Across the board there was an attention to texture, silhouette, and colour – Sina Hirsch through raw off-white eveningwear in uncompromising sculptural shapes, Vien Cochrane through moss-green asymmetric pleats on baroque dresses. Indeed, the spirit of Issey Miyake’s textile manipulations felt present in most collections (Ida Van Gaever Larsen’s wonderfully amorphic and exceptionally executed couture gown in particular) – perhaps a reflection of the programme’s unique attention to materiality and textile production.
The highlight was Cecilie Soriano, who presented modern puffer-esque outerwear with playful fringes and elasti-band wrinkles – as well as Caroline Gram’s über-sexy long leather coat. There were glaring missteps, of course – anything else would be an anomaly – but all in all, SADF successfully sent off eight blooming designers into the industry (from now on, just remember to steam your clothes!).
View all looks here.