Mark Kenly Domino Tan: Pleats, please

TIME & DATE: Wednesday 8 August – 15.00
PLACE: Pasteursvej
Words Elsebeth Mouritzen

The hype around Mark Kenly Domino Tan for his couture-ish design since his debut just five years ago has put him in a unique situation — one befitting the star craftsman he is. First movers have flocked to Tan’s atelier to invest in his elegant designs, which bear no sign of time while remaining contemporary. However, the success has left a void among the less affluent for more accessible garments that still bear his signature style.

Today was the second time around for the MKDT line, which Tan created a season ago, and the catwalk show proved that he is not reserving his best ideas for the rich and famous, but also putting effort into more affordable clothes with unmistakable qualities in fabrics and design. He is known to tailor a well-fitting jacket and structure a good dress, and taking a cue from this experience while adding the timelessness of vintage clothes, he comes up with a wearable masculine-feminine take on urban dressing.

His inspiration comes from a vintage men’s trenchcoat and a pleated couture dress, both originating

in the 1940s, which he and his team have dissected and examined to uncover their secrets. The outcome of putting it all together again, with the knowledge of what the modern woman craves, is roomy, mannish trenchcoats and far from traditional blazers, checkered or pinstriped, open inner seams on the sleeves. One of the more feminine looks that stands out are V-necked, cinched-waist jackets in pleated lightweight striped wools.

Tan also draws on his Asian roots with asymmetrical lines in crisp white blouses, long tunics over wide-legged soft pants, and whimsical mixes of fabrics and pattern in tiered skirts, blending Vichy checks with dots and eyelet embroidery. Yet the overall impression is global beyond borders. Surprisingly, he also presented baggy jeans in workwear style, but his potential lies in the still relaxed, but more constructed pieces. And more pleats, please. They are so flattering.

View all looks here.