Highlights from AW20

A full season of shows and presentations ended last week, and we have asked Carla Christine Bruus Aagaard-Strube, Editor-in-Chief at Danish trade media Fashion Forum, about her impression of AW20, and what we can take away from this season.

An eventful and exciting season has come to an end, how would you define these past three days?
Whereas the shows at SS20 in August, somehow felt a festival of parties, this season represented a necessary deep breath. We are all very much aware that we must change the way we view, produce and consume fashion and it is so interesting for me to see how the brands are adapting to this reality and to some degree are reinventing themselves. During SS20 in August, I thought the idea of brands really using the fashion shows as a show, that to some extent focused more on the DNA and storytelling of the brand than the collections themselves, was truly brilliant . This season, focus was placed more on what sustainable fashion (also) need to be in this day and age: wearable wardrobe staples in great quality materials. We also saw a lot of beige, coffee and creamy colours as well as supersized collars and so many great menswear and menswear inspired blazers, jackets and coats, that it made me slightly dizzy. 

What are some of the changes and developments in the industry you have noticed since SS20, that you are especially excited about? 
My editorial team received emails on sustainable initiatives from fashion brandsmalmost daily, and even though we can’t include them all, we are paying very close attention to the range of developments in this area. This of course, is reflected in both show set-ups and collections in very different ways. This season, we observed a renewed sharp minimalism that I find very suitable for where we’re at right now. I believe that people who are finding this tedious need to renew their view on fashion and take a deeper look at what it entails. Copenhagen Fashion Week started out with the launch of a very ambitious sustainability action plan, both for the fashion week as an event and the participating brands, that I can’t wait to follow. Somehow, fashion will always survive and I’m super excited about how both fashion brands, the fashion industry and the fashion weeks will evolve from here. 

What are some of your personal highlights from the shows and presentations on the official AW20 schedule?
Mark Tan’s show at the University Library was extraordinary in every way. The location itself was superior and very hard to get – I know that it made many fashion professionals jealous. The boys’ choir almost brought me to tears and the collection, extremely carefully designed with a high level of details, materials and quality, was nothing short of superb.

The Soulland show was hosted in a great location as well, and both the men’s and women’s collection balanced a more ‘adult’ timbre – complete with the sense of humour that is so important to the brand. Lovechild 1979 presented a full collection that I could move right into and (di)vision, Selam Fessahaye and Rave Review all presented a fresh take on contemporary – and future – fashion. Cecilie Bahnsen made me quite emotional with her new collection. It is no secret that she’s a darling of mine and seeing her evolve as a designer is simply amazing. This season she introduced blue and brown into her colour palette, alongside a quilted coat that I still dream about – just like the biker/puffer jacket from Tonsure, that was irresistibly cheeky and cool.