Constructed functionality – Lærke Andersen

Words Katrine Lund-Nielsen

Winner of Magasin du Nord Fashion Prize 2017 Lærke Andersen made her show debut at Copenhagen Fashion Week this season. With the construction site in Nordhavn, the young designer chose a location well suited to tell the story of her AW18-collection.

Based on Lærke Andersen’s passion for functionality, the collection was a mix of workwear and sportswear. Oversized canvas coats paired with bright-yellow hoodies, tight pants (almost like running pants) met bomber jackets, and cropped tops (… or were they simply sports bras?) coupled with raw denim jeans.

If there’s one thing Lærke Andersen does well, it’s mastering construction. Each piece seems to be constructed from different materials and layers. Like the canvas coat with blue and green fur, visible due to reverse linings, or the excellent sweat suit that appeared to be made out of a thousand hoodies. A denim jacket was introduced, too, with an oversized fit that takes the concept to a new (level.

There was a masculine feel to the collection, owing to raw fabrics and bulky silhouettes. Yet sexy details like visible angles, naked backs, transparent materials, cropped tops, and high slits gave a feminine touch to it all. The diverse group of female models (including the progressive feminist Maja Malou Lyse) made clear the collection’s prediliction for powerful individuality.

Deserve the fashion prize, Andersen did, and more so, as was vividly illustrated.

View looks here