TIME & DATE: Thursday 9 August – 19.00
PLACE: CPH Towers
Words Elsebeth Mouritzen
What does a successful young man look like these days when he dresses for work and play? According to designer Martin Asbjørn, he will look relaxed with a self-confident attitude. Or was it the other way around? In any case, no macho, no bling, no logo. Just plain at ease with himself.
This is how the collection, titled 100 % Success Club, came across when presented in an executive room turned runway high above the Copenhagen skyline. Martin Asbjørn had chosen a small army of models resembling contemporary entrepreneurs, with soft features and long hair, the kind of guys you normally see in startup offices wearing a good t-shirt and comfortable pants.
All the young dudes were just right for his vision of a contemporary wardrobe, which is neither streetwear nor straight-up luxury. He was revisiting his tailoring roots and blending his weakness for 80s style icons like Wall Street bankers and French Riviera life artists into a look for the 21stcentury, one that never will never look like a travesty.
Martin Asbjørn showed some very handsome unstructured boxy jackets in lightwight wool and corduroy with matching loose trousers that will fit into a boardroom any time, and some more racy stuff like tight suede pants with fringes down the outer seam. He is very strong in the softer leisurewear, from the terry tracksuits to mesh t-shirts and drawstring pants and shorts, all done in a refined and flattering design. He added a female model to his otherwise all-male cast to show that women can wear his warm caramel sweaters and poplin pants, too, but this signature could easily imagine herself in the trenchcoat of seemingly weightless paper poplin in a geometric print of aqua and camel on off-white.
Martin Asbjørn is destined to be 100 % successful.
View all looks here.