TIME & DATE: Thursday 9 August – 11:00
Words Line Hindsgaul
Mathilde Torp Mader was head-hunted for By Malene Birger last year to be the label’s new creative director. For the fashion week in February, she had only been in the seat for a short time, and therefore chose not to put on a show, but instead held a viewing of a short film, introducing some SS18 pieces and setting the mood for the changes that were to come.
And boy where there changes! Mathilde introduced us to her Malene Birger — a sporty, streamlined, and sharp look that may surprise some of Malene Birger’s longtime and loyal customers, while almost certainly gaining a whole new clientele. The new Malene Birger has an international appeal and a fashion-forward vibe.
The inspiration for SS19 — the Lush Lady Collection — started in the archive, featuring a recurrent print derived from an archival line drawing of Rubens-esque women from 2009. This was used on everything from shirts to pants and dresses and made for a delicate and fresh take on print. Other looks took inspiration from the technical details of nineties streetwear, as seen on drawstring sleeves on sweaters and skirts, and as cut-out mesh on long dresses worn with leggings underneath. A slip dress with corsetlike drawings on one side and graphic cut-out on the other felt young and current. A few power pantsuits, knit dresses with drawstring details (complete knitted leggings underneath), and a belted jacquard coat with the lush print represented a more grown up side of the collection.
Fabrics felt summery, fresh in cotton, drill, linen, and knit. Colours were mostly mahogany, terracotta, and pumpkin orange, mixed with blue and yellow, giving a rich, saturated look. For the finale, a series of exquisite sequin dresses appeared and completely stole the show.We look forward to following how Torp Mader will further develop the label and put new spins on the Birger heritage.
View all looks here.