TIME & DATE: Wednesday 8 August – 11.00
Words Jeppe Ugelvig
Thanks to cheeky logo appropriations by young designers such as Gosha Rubchinskiy and Vetements, we’re living in a new age of heritage fashion. Not unlike the 1990s, the history of ubiquitous mainstream fashion brands are being mined, reinterpreted, and re-fetishized once more, this time for a new generation of consumers — the millennials — who, armed with the internet, are savvier and less seducible than their predecessors. J Lindeberg, the seasoned Swedish procurer of tees, suits, and cool sportswear — knows this, and has responded with the appointment of the self-taught creative director Jens Werner, who presented his second chapter of his reboot Wednesday morning at Tap 1.
In a cacophony of track shorts, bathing suits, synthetic jackets and tight monochrome dresses, the collection argued its case for the continued relevance of athleisurewear – also in the Nordic region. The casting and styling alike gestured toward an urban, Instagram-friendly aesthetic, interspersed with what we traditionally would relate to the Lindeberg legacy: impeccably-cut suits. In 2018, these had received a fashionable update, with dark blue and finely checkered blazers accompanying matching cropped shorts. A series of purposely worn-out knits for both genders added a nice balance to the collection, which otherwise exuded a rather polished vibe.
These fabulous moments of synthesis between the Lindeberg and Werner visions were interrupted, though, by countless styles that where unmistakably inspired from the recent collections of Gosha Rubchinskiy/Raf Simons/Balenciaga. White shirts with printed photo collages, Ikea-esque shopping bags, oversize skiing jackets, and “ugly sneakers” may sell like hot cakes at the moment, but at this point there is a risk of exhausting these silhouettes. Werner’s mark on Lindeberg is an exciting regime change, but time will show if it is a change that can endure the fleeting topicality of Insta-fashion — and solidify the brand as a leader in the Nordic region.
View all looks here.