Words Pernille Hammershøj
What do you get when combining silk, velvet, suede leather, and Dr. Martens? A cool vibe with a touch of conservatism. Young menswear talent Martin Asbjørn had looked into the archives of a gentleman’s wardrobe in his new collection, harshening it to great effect. Modest checked trousers in voluminous shapes were styled with layers of knits, jumpers, bomber jackets, and trench coats. The look had a craftsman’s twist to it, pockets giving the impression that these clothes could be used for practical routines.
The collection played with classic contrasts, such as leather styled with silk and, as another favorite menswear look, a colorful shirt almost hidden by a sweater. The devil was in the details: Eye-catching necklaces and handpiece jewelry made it clear that although Martin Asbjørn borrows from the traditional male wardrobe, he understands how to be modern — and rough.
A recurring theme was the teenage edge that Martin Asbjørn embraced: By styling the looks with red Dr. Martens boots, playing with voluminous silhouettes (which demand a slim, teenage figure to look good), and simply using the print “teenage” and “teenage dirtbag” on sweatshirts and jackets,he carried a message that the observant viewer would notice even in the laces, printed “teenage dirtbag” and “Martin Asbjørn.”
While staying true to the male wardrobe, Asbjørn gave its conventions a young and rugged vibe.
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